It feels fantastic to be back in the shop.
It's been a crazy year. First, I moved in January. That involved quitting my job, selling my house, buying a new house, moving (you'll notice the gap in between... I lived in a miserable apartment for two months, December and January), and then discovering I didn't have a job in the new location. So for the next six months I unpacked, job hunted, and did my best to relax and recover from my last job. (It worked... my blood pressure dropped 20 points, both systolic and diastolic.) Then I got a new job, which coincided with a social schedule of being gone every weekend for three months.
Today, I FINALLY got a day in the shop, and over the last few months I've bought a few new (well, used, really) toys. The big ones were an old Millers Falls miter box, complete with the original Disston backsaw, and a Craftsman combination plane that appears to have been made by Sargent. So, what to do? Well, I started turning a pile of old lumber into a toolchest. The lumber came from a workbench that was in the basement when we moved into the house, and while it looked good, it wasn't useful to me: poking it with one finger (while it was loaded down with air conditioners, no less!) made it sway a good three or four inches. For some things, that's fine. For hand tool work, it's not really useful. But it included six 30" and six 72" pieces of 1x12, and even if they aren't the best (lots of big knots and pitch pockets), careful cutting should yield a fair amount of usable lumber.
The chest I'm building is approximately the Dutch Tool Chest that Christopher Schwarz has made popular over the last few months(Link!). As much as I love the full size joiner's chest, it won't work for me. I need to be able to move my tools from the garage to the basement as the seasons change, and I'm so not carrying one of those big chests down the rickety outdoor steps into my basement. The Dutch chest, on the other hand, I ought to be able to pretty much pick up and carry.
I didn't do much in the way of measuring for this chest. My largest panel saw (8 TPI, filed rip) is about 28 inches long. My longest hand plane is 24 inches long. That means the inside needed to be about 29-30 inches. Since I don't like ripping lumber, I'm going with the full width of the 1x12, and the height is a somewhat random 27". I picked that based on the theory of "Hmm. This seems like it should be easy to reach everything. Why not?" The length, including the sides, turns out to be almost exactly 31".
As to the joinery, I decided to take the easy way out, which also gave me an opportunity to try out my new combination plane: the bottom, like the shelf, is set in a dado, rather than being dovetailed. A dadoed, glued, and screwed joint should be just about as strong as it needs to be, and it meant I could get the majority of the work done in a day. The one other real change I'm making is in how small saws will be stored. I just don't like the saw till in the Schwarz version, so I'm adding a false back to the top compartment, and narrowing the base of that compartment so saws can be slid down behind. I may end up regretting that if the joinery saws hang up on the panel saws in use, but I think it will work out OK.
In all, I spent a good six hours or so in the shop, and most of the complicated work is done. I'll need to rabbet the boards for the back, screw them to the carcase, and do the same for the front. Then it's a matter of adding a tool rack and lid, and figuring out how to get all my tools in. Probably not more than another six hours of work, not counting the tool-fitting.
And it felt GREAT to be out in the shop again.
Tuesday, October 1, 2013
Monday, September 23, 2013
Saw Sharpening
I just had another experience to support my "people really overcomplicate things" theory. The theory, in short, is that people overcomplicate things by assuming they're harder then they are.
This experience was using a saw set.
Now, I know that a lot people think sharpening a saw is hard. I don't know why they think that, but I also don't know why people think putting up tile walls is hard. I'd always been a little hesitant to say "Sharpening saws is easy," because I'd never had to set the teeth before. Well, now I'm going to say it: sharpening saws is easy.
A year or so ago I bought a saw on eBay. It cost $7.50, with free shipping, so I knew I wasn't getting a fantastic saw. But it was a backsaw, with a usable looking tote, and around 14TPI, which was what I wanted. After some poking, I decided it had three real problems with it:
1) The plate was curved. That wasn't too hard to fix, so I did.
2) The teeth were dull. OK, that still needs to be fixed (I still can't figure out where I packed my needle file when I moved), but I've done it before, and it's not hard.
3) The teeth had no set at all. In fact, it's possible that they were leaving a kerf narrower than the sawplate. In any case, it would jam tight about 1/4" into a piece of wood, which isn't actually very useful.
Over the weekend, though, I finally found a saw-set that would work on teeth that small, and time to use it. You know what? It's easy. Granted it's a small saw -- about 11" -- but the teeth are pretty small, too. It took me about 10 minutes, some of which was spent trying to figure out how to best clamp it to be able to reach everything. Given that sharpening usually takes me about 10-15 minutes, I would say the whole job could be done in under half an hour per saw, barring weirdness like severely bellied blades, missing teeth, or a desire for unusual tooth geometry.
Do I think everyone should be able to completely sharpen and set a saw in 20-25 minutes? No. I have some advantages going in. I have better than average vision, which helps with the little teeth. I have good hand-eye coordination, which means I hit the wrong tooth fairly rarely. And I don't feel a need for my tools to be perfect, just very good, which means I don't worry about it a lot if I get one stroke too many or few on a couple of teeth. Yeah, it's not ideal, but it will average out in the long run.
But, do I think everyone who uses hand saws should pick up a file and saw set and learn to use them? Yes. It's easy. Just try not to overcomplicate things too much.
This experience was using a saw set.
Now, I know that a lot people think sharpening a saw is hard. I don't know why they think that, but I also don't know why people think putting up tile walls is hard. I'd always been a little hesitant to say "Sharpening saws is easy," because I'd never had to set the teeth before. Well, now I'm going to say it: sharpening saws is easy.
A year or so ago I bought a saw on eBay. It cost $7.50, with free shipping, so I knew I wasn't getting a fantastic saw. But it was a backsaw, with a usable looking tote, and around 14TPI, which was what I wanted. After some poking, I decided it had three real problems with it:
1) The plate was curved. That wasn't too hard to fix, so I did.
2) The teeth were dull. OK, that still needs to be fixed (I still can't figure out where I packed my needle file when I moved), but I've done it before, and it's not hard.
3) The teeth had no set at all. In fact, it's possible that they were leaving a kerf narrower than the sawplate. In any case, it would jam tight about 1/4" into a piece of wood, which isn't actually very useful.
Over the weekend, though, I finally found a saw-set that would work on teeth that small, and time to use it. You know what? It's easy. Granted it's a small saw -- about 11" -- but the teeth are pretty small, too. It took me about 10 minutes, some of which was spent trying to figure out how to best clamp it to be able to reach everything. Given that sharpening usually takes me about 10-15 minutes, I would say the whole job could be done in under half an hour per saw, barring weirdness like severely bellied blades, missing teeth, or a desire for unusual tooth geometry.
Do I think everyone should be able to completely sharpen and set a saw in 20-25 minutes? No. I have some advantages going in. I have better than average vision, which helps with the little teeth. I have good hand-eye coordination, which means I hit the wrong tooth fairly rarely. And I don't feel a need for my tools to be perfect, just very good, which means I don't worry about it a lot if I get one stroke too many or few on a couple of teeth. Yeah, it's not ideal, but it will average out in the long run.
But, do I think everyone who uses hand saws should pick up a file and saw set and learn to use them? Yes. It's easy. Just try not to overcomplicate things too much.
Monday, July 29, 2013
A question of glue
I recently read "The Joiner and Cabinetmaker", republished by Lost Art Press. I'll write up a full review of it sometime, but that's not the point here. One of the things they included was an overview of how to apply veneer, and why you should be careful while doing it. Their technique is to basically pour the glue on, really soaking the piece, before placing the veneer. The logic was that glue is cheap, it's better to have too much than not enough, and it wasn't going to interfere with any finishes anyway. One of their final comments was that a poor craftsman, who hadn't used enough glue, would have to steam the veneer loose and replace it, which was a waste of time and might damage the veneer.
I also recently read a couple of articles about veneering in modern publications. One, which I can't recall the source of, talked about how you had to be fairly careful not to get glue on the outside of the veneer, because it would make it hard to apply a finish. The other was an article in the most recent Fine Woodworking about veneer, and how to fix a void at the edge. They said that, if the void was small, you could fill it using a wax pencil. But then they went on to say that if it was large, you were going to have to sand or plane the veneer off and start over, because there's no way to fill that void.
Having read both, I found myself wondering if the new glues are really that big an improvement: not only do new glues (PVA glues, specifically) interfere with finishing if you get them on the surface of the piece, but they're not reversible, so you can't fix things if you make a mistake. Is this really progress?
I also recently read a couple of articles about veneering in modern publications. One, which I can't recall the source of, talked about how you had to be fairly careful not to get glue on the outside of the veneer, because it would make it hard to apply a finish. The other was an article in the most recent Fine Woodworking about veneer, and how to fix a void at the edge. They said that, if the void was small, you could fill it using a wax pencil. But then they went on to say that if it was large, you were going to have to sand or plane the veneer off and start over, because there's no way to fill that void.
Having read both, I found myself wondering if the new glues are really that big an improvement: not only do new glues (PVA glues, specifically) interfere with finishing if you get them on the surface of the piece, but they're not reversible, so you can't fix things if you make a mistake. Is this really progress?
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
On Quality
I know: this is a journal about woodworking on the cheap. And since I'm still kind of a cheapskate, I'll keep with that theme, for the most part. But here's the thing: in woodworking, up to a point, you get what you pay for. At the lowest end, even a few dollars makes a difference: The difference between a $15 saw and a $20 saw can be pretty significant. At the top end, it kind of ceases to matter: sure, that $2000 plane may be better than $500 one, but is it really four times as good? Or is it maybe $20 better?
Anyway.
For the last year or so, my primary smoothing plane has been a Ward's Master No. 4. It's essentially a Stanley #4, except not as good. I've always had some trouble with it: the cutter regularly slips side to side, and adjusting the depth of cut can be frustrating. But once it's set, it can take some beautiful thin shavings, thin to the point of translucence. And the improvement in my sharpening skills has been helping, too... sharp can compensate somewhat for slightly out of adjustment.
Today, I finally pulled out my Stanley #3. It's an old plane -- the date on the cutter is in the 1890s, and the latest patent date listed is 1910 -- and it's in beautiful shape. I inherited it: when my uncle went to clean out my grandfather's basement, quite a few years after my grandfather passed away, it was there with some other tools. Since I'm the only woodworker in the family, they mostly came to me. That was last summer, and I'm just now managing to do the necessary cleanup, which tells you something about my life for the past year.
It's amazing. It didn't need much: it'd been stored in something like cosmoline, so it wasn't especially rusty, despite having been in an unheated basement for years. I cleaned the grease off with WD-40 (aerosolized kerosene is a wonderful thing...), and did a little light tuneup. The sole had a touch of rust, so I sanded that lightly with sandpaper on a piece of plate-glass, and the iron was badly in need of sharpening. But once that was done... it just worked. Drop the iron in and line up the lateral adjustment, and it's straight. The mouth was pretty far closed already, so a spin of the depth adjuster brought the cutter down below the sole, ready to take a fine cut. With the first cut, I knew I was replacing the No. 4. Depth adjustment is quick and precise, with very little backlash (the main problem with the Ward's plane). The lateral adjustment works quickly and cleanly. The tote feels more like wood, and less like Bakelite. And, while the iron still needs a little work, I could go from custruction-paper-thickness shavings right down to those "read large print through them" shavings, with no problem.
So what's the big difference here? Quality. The channel on the depth adjusting wheel on the No. 4 is far larger than it should be, which means depth adjustment is hard. The frog doesn't sit quite straight (it's only a degree or two off, but that's enough), which means lateral adjustment is a little strange. The lever cap is always too tight or too loose, no matter how you adjust the screw.
The Stanley probably cost twice as much new, despite being a smaller tool. But it will be a better quality tool for as long as it's cared for.
I'll hang onto that Ward's Master plane: it was the first I ever bought, and I have some ideas for fixing some of the more egregious problems. But in the end, it's a lower quality tool, and it will probably never be as good. So when you can, buy quality.
Anyway.
For the last year or so, my primary smoothing plane has been a Ward's Master No. 4. It's essentially a Stanley #4, except not as good. I've always had some trouble with it: the cutter regularly slips side to side, and adjusting the depth of cut can be frustrating. But once it's set, it can take some beautiful thin shavings, thin to the point of translucence. And the improvement in my sharpening skills has been helping, too... sharp can compensate somewhat for slightly out of adjustment.
Today, I finally pulled out my Stanley #3. It's an old plane -- the date on the cutter is in the 1890s, and the latest patent date listed is 1910 -- and it's in beautiful shape. I inherited it: when my uncle went to clean out my grandfather's basement, quite a few years after my grandfather passed away, it was there with some other tools. Since I'm the only woodworker in the family, they mostly came to me. That was last summer, and I'm just now managing to do the necessary cleanup, which tells you something about my life for the past year.
It's amazing. It didn't need much: it'd been stored in something like cosmoline, so it wasn't especially rusty, despite having been in an unheated basement for years. I cleaned the grease off with WD-40 (aerosolized kerosene is a wonderful thing...), and did a little light tuneup. The sole had a touch of rust, so I sanded that lightly with sandpaper on a piece of plate-glass, and the iron was badly in need of sharpening. But once that was done... it just worked. Drop the iron in and line up the lateral adjustment, and it's straight. The mouth was pretty far closed already, so a spin of the depth adjuster brought the cutter down below the sole, ready to take a fine cut. With the first cut, I knew I was replacing the No. 4. Depth adjustment is quick and precise, with very little backlash (the main problem with the Ward's plane). The lateral adjustment works quickly and cleanly. The tote feels more like wood, and less like Bakelite. And, while the iron still needs a little work, I could go from custruction-paper-thickness shavings right down to those "read large print through them" shavings, with no problem.
So what's the big difference here? Quality. The channel on the depth adjusting wheel on the No. 4 is far larger than it should be, which means depth adjustment is hard. The frog doesn't sit quite straight (it's only a degree or two off, but that's enough), which means lateral adjustment is a little strange. The lever cap is always too tight or too loose, no matter how you adjust the screw.
The Stanley probably cost twice as much new, despite being a smaller tool. But it will be a better quality tool for as long as it's cared for.
I'll hang onto that Ward's Master plane: it was the first I ever bought, and I have some ideas for fixing some of the more egregious problems. But in the end, it's a lower quality tool, and it will probably never be as good. So when you can, buy quality.
Thursday, June 20, 2013
I never thought I'd do this...
But this post is purely to point to someone else's post:
"The acquisitive spirit is the enemy of craft. Nobody has ever made anything out of wood by wishing he had a bigger shop in which to work. The best way to work in a small space is to go work in it."
- The Literary Workshop Blog
"The acquisitive spirit is the enemy of craft. Nobody has ever made anything out of wood by wishing he had a bigger shop in which to work. The best way to work in a small space is to go work in it."
- The Literary Workshop Blog
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
Thoughts on chisels
I have two sets of chisels, purchased at very different times in my woodworking hobby.
The second set is a no-longer-available set of eight Wood River bench chisels from WoodCraft. This set is pretty much the six smallest chisels, although the handles look a little different. I bought them not long after I started trying to actually learn woodworking, when I decided it would be nice to have some tools actually designed to do what I wanted.
They're decent. Not super high quality, and they've got some odd quirks (every single one of them has a handle that's about one degree out of parallel with the blade, tipped up away from the flat back of the chisel -- I have no idea why, but they all do it), but they're serving me well. I like them, but they're not much good for chopping mortises. They're not exactly paring chisels, but they're also really not designed as mortise chisels, and whaling away at them makes me nervous.
This morning, I had a brainstorm: I remembered my first set of chisels. I bought them at Sears years ago, when I needed to reshape a 2x8 to fit around a pipe that stuck out of the ceiling. Long story, don't ask. These things (though I got a 4-piece set, which appears to no longer exist) are ugly. Short blades. Big lands on the sides. Oddly tapered. Black plastic handles, with steel butt caps. But... they're thick, solid blades. There's no way the handle is going to split: that steel end cap should make sure of that. So I dug one out. It turned out to be a half-inch, which was fine. This was just a test. Time to find the rest later. I flattened the back (which took surprisingly little work -- it actually was essentially flat to begin with), and put a new edge on it. Then I grabbed a scrap of pine, and started bashing away.
And you know what? I don't need to buy those Narex mortise chisels right now. These aren't fantastic -- they won't hold an edge all that long, for one thing -- but they work a LOT better than the Wood River ones ever did for mortises.
And all this for something like $20. I now have, if I can find them all, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1" mortise chisels. I'd be happier with just a 1/4 and a 5/8, but hey... these'll do. And they don't require me to spend more money right now, which is worth quite a lot. Who knew?
The second set is a no-longer-available set of eight Wood River bench chisels from WoodCraft. This set is pretty much the six smallest chisels, although the handles look a little different. I bought them not long after I started trying to actually learn woodworking, when I decided it would be nice to have some tools actually designed to do what I wanted.
They're decent. Not super high quality, and they've got some odd quirks (every single one of them has a handle that's about one degree out of parallel with the blade, tipped up away from the flat back of the chisel -- I have no idea why, but they all do it), but they're serving me well. I like them, but they're not much good for chopping mortises. They're not exactly paring chisels, but they're also really not designed as mortise chisels, and whaling away at them makes me nervous.
This morning, I had a brainstorm: I remembered my first set of chisels. I bought them at Sears years ago, when I needed to reshape a 2x8 to fit around a pipe that stuck out of the ceiling. Long story, don't ask. These things (though I got a 4-piece set, which appears to no longer exist) are ugly. Short blades. Big lands on the sides. Oddly tapered. Black plastic handles, with steel butt caps. But... they're thick, solid blades. There's no way the handle is going to split: that steel end cap should make sure of that. So I dug one out. It turned out to be a half-inch, which was fine. This was just a test. Time to find the rest later. I flattened the back (which took surprisingly little work -- it actually was essentially flat to begin with), and put a new edge on it. Then I grabbed a scrap of pine, and started bashing away.
And you know what? I don't need to buy those Narex mortise chisels right now. These aren't fantastic -- they won't hold an edge all that long, for one thing -- but they work a LOT better than the Wood River ones ever did for mortises.
And all this for something like $20. I now have, if I can find them all, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1" mortise chisels. I'd be happier with just a 1/4 and a 5/8, but hey... these'll do. And they don't require me to spend more money right now, which is worth quite a lot. Who knew?
Thursday, June 13, 2013
CTR 6: Deer brand Gent's Saw
Let's get it out of the way right now: This is a $16 saw. It's not going to be the best tool you'll ever use. Woodworking is one of those weird places where, up to a point, you really do get what you pay for, and $16 is CHEAP for a back saw.
This is the saw that WoodCraft sells as the "4140/250 Straight Back Saw". My first impression was pretty poor, but I've figured some things out since then.
However: last week I went out to the shop to putter. I've promised myself I'll spend some time, no matter how little, doing SOMETHING in the shop every day. I picked up the saw, and thought about trying to hand cut some dovetails, but I just couldn't bring myself to deal with the hassle of using it. So instead, I started trying to figure out why it didn't work well.
A saw is a simple tool. It needs:
1) A straight, flat sawplate. This one had that, so that wasn't the problem.
2) A handle you can grip reasonably comfortable for as long as you're going to use it. This saw also had that, so that wasn't the problem either.
3) Sharp teeth. OK, the thing could use some sharpening, but it's not THAT dull.
4) Proper set to the teeth. Huh. To quote, "Well, there's your problem!" The set on the teeth made the kerf nearly three times the thickness of the saw plate. That's ridiculous. How many of the problems could fixing that address? Let's see... Slow cutting? Check. Hard to start? Check. Hard to keep on a line? Check. Lousy surface after cutting? Maybe.
Once I'd figured out the problem, I decided on the easiest solution. The back of my machinist's vise has a small anvil on it, and I have a small hammer. I went up the blade, tapping each bunch of teeth with the hammer. This is a lightweight hammer, and I basically dropped it on the teeth from about five inches up. The teeth had visibly less set when I finished one pass, so I took the saw back to the bench.... and it's like it's a completely different tool. Starting is a lot easier, it cuts straighter, it cuts far, far, faster, and the surface left behind is a little bit cleaner. Not much, but a little.
At this point, the saw could really use sharpening, but it's no longer a matter of cursing when I realize I need to use it. Now it's just another saw in my toolbox, and worth grabbing if I have a job of the proper scale for it.
UPDATE: I'm now using a Veritas carcase saw (reviewed later on in this series) for almost everything I used to use this saw for. It's in my tool chest, and it comes out occasionally for cutting really small pieces, but I barely use it. Like I said, don't buy this unless you can't afford to buy better.
This is the saw that WoodCraft sells as the "4140/250 Straight Back Saw". My first impression was pretty poor, but I've figured some things out since then.
What do you get, and what's the construction like?
It's a back saw; wood handle, steel saw plate, steel back. The handle is a touch small for me, but I find that the grip is reasonably comfortable. It's around 15TPI, filed rip. Remember here that with teeth that size, it really doesn't matter whether teeth are filed rip or crosscut: it does both equally well. Mine has held up pretty well: the printed logo is worn off to just about exactly half the depth, showing that it's really deeper than it needs to be for most things I use it for. I think that, in large part, that's because I like the Shark ryoba better for longer cuts.How does it work?
Initially, it was terrible. Slow cutting, hard to start, hard to keep on a straight line, and with a miserable finish left behind. If it wasn't for the fact that it's the perfect size to use with a bench hook, and the ryoba isn't, I probably never would have used it.However: last week I went out to the shop to putter. I've promised myself I'll spend some time, no matter how little, doing SOMETHING in the shop every day. I picked up the saw, and thought about trying to hand cut some dovetails, but I just couldn't bring myself to deal with the hassle of using it. So instead, I started trying to figure out why it didn't work well.
A saw is a simple tool. It needs:
1) A straight, flat sawplate. This one had that, so that wasn't the problem.
2) A handle you can grip reasonably comfortable for as long as you're going to use it. This saw also had that, so that wasn't the problem either.
3) Sharp teeth. OK, the thing could use some sharpening, but it's not THAT dull.
4) Proper set to the teeth. Huh. To quote, "Well, there's your problem!" The set on the teeth made the kerf nearly three times the thickness of the saw plate. That's ridiculous. How many of the problems could fixing that address? Let's see... Slow cutting? Check. Hard to start? Check. Hard to keep on a line? Check. Lousy surface after cutting? Maybe.
Once I'd figured out the problem, I decided on the easiest solution. The back of my machinist's vise has a small anvil on it, and I have a small hammer. I went up the blade, tapping each bunch of teeth with the hammer. This is a lightweight hammer, and I basically dropped it on the teeth from about five inches up. The teeth had visibly less set when I finished one pass, so I took the saw back to the bench.... and it's like it's a completely different tool. Starting is a lot easier, it cuts straighter, it cuts far, far, faster, and the surface left behind is a little bit cleaner. Not much, but a little.
At this point, the saw could really use sharpening, but it's no longer a matter of cursing when I realize I need to use it. Now it's just another saw in my toolbox, and worth grabbing if I have a job of the proper scale for it.
Final Thoughts?
I'm normally opposed to tools that need work before you can use them. If it's used, fine... all tools need tuning once in a while, and who knows what the previous owner did. But, out of the box, a saw should be sharp, set, and ready to cut. This one isn't. But... it's $16. A good dovetail saw will cost four or five times that: that's why I don't have one. So this is a reasonable compromise, in my opinion. If this is what you can afford, it's possible to turn it into a pretty decent tool with very little work.Would I buy another?
If I needed a really cheap saw of this size, sure. For what it is, it works fine. That said, I plan to sharpen it once, then find a higher-quality dovetail saw to use instead. Sharpening it will give me practice filing teeth that small, and give me some time to find a good dovetail saw I can afford.UPDATE: I'm now using a Veritas carcase saw (reviewed later on in this series) for almost everything I used to use this saw for. It's in my tool chest, and it comes out occasionally for cutting really small pieces, but I barely use it. Like I said, don't buy this unless you can't afford to buy better.
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